Common Mistakes in Pattern Making and How to Avoid Them

Pattern-making is a critical step in the garment creation process. It requires precision, a deep understanding of body measurements, and an eye for detail. However, even experienced pattern makers encounter common pitfalls. These mistakes can lead to ill-fitting garments, wasted materials, and lost time. This blog will explore some of the most frequent pattern-making mistakes and how to avoid them.

1. Inaccurate Measurements

One of the most common issues in pattern-making is starting with inaccurate body measurements. Even a small deviation can cause significant problems when constructing the final garment. It's essential to take precise measurements of the body and record them carefully. Using a flexible tape measure and measuring from key points (like the bust, waist, hips, and shoulder) ensures accuracy. Rechecking measurements before drafting a pattern is a good practice, especially if you’re working with multiple clients or body types.

How to Avoid It: Always measure twice and cut once. Double-checking measurements ensures the accuracy of your patterns. Also, it’s helpful to follow a standardized measurement chart or create one specifically for your project.

2. Incorrect Seam Allowances

Forgetting to add, or inaccurately adding, seam allowances can lead to garments that are too tight or loose. Seam allowances give fabric room for construction and joining the pattern pieces together. Patterns without proper seam allowances will produce garments that differ from the intended size.

How to Avoid It: Always remember to include seam allowances during the drafting process. Make it a habit to mark seam allowances clearly on your patterns and specify different allowance widths for various parts of the garment (e.g., larger allowances for side seams, smaller ones for necklines or armholes).

3. Not Considering Fabric Type

Different fabrics behave differently when cut and sewn. Stretchy fabrics like knits require different handling than rigid materials like denim or leather. One common mistake is using the same pattern for both fabric types without adjusting for their unique properties, which can lead to poorly fitting garments.

How to Avoid It: Always take the fabric’s properties into account when drafting patterns. For stretchy fabrics, you may need to reduce ease or adjust pattern dimensions to accommodate the fabric's behavior. Test with small swatches before cutting out the entire garment.

4. Ignoring Ease in the Design

Ease is the amount of space between the body and the garment. Some beginners skip this crucial step, resulting in garments that are either too tight or too baggy. Different types of garments require different levels of ease—formal wear may need less ease, while casual or relaxed garments may require more.

How to Avoid It: Make sure to add the appropriate amount of ease to your pattern based on the garment type and the fabric being used. Reference standard ease charts for different styles and adjust based on personal preferences.

5. Neglecting Grainlines

Grainlines on a pattern indicate how the fabric should be cut to ensure the garment drapes correctly. Ignoring or misaligning grainlines can cause fabric distortion, uneven hems, or improper fitting. It’s essential to pay attention to how your fabric lays during the cutting process.

How to Avoid It: Always align your pattern pieces with the fabric grainline. The grainline should run parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric unless the design calls for a specific bias cut. Double-check your fabric before cutting to avoid costly errors.

By paying attention to measurements, seam allowances, fabric properties, ease, and grainlines, you can create well-fitted garments. Taking time to perfect your techniques will improve your efficiency and help you avoid common pattern-making pitfalls in the future.